Compact CAERLEON (Caerllion), three miles north of central Newport (bus #2; every 15min), but still within the city limits, is peppered with the remnants of the major Roman town of Isca, named after the River Usk (Wysg). The settlement was built to provide administrative and military services for the smaller, outlying camps in the rest of south Wales and grew to a size and importance on a par with the better-known York and Chester in the north of England. Although the town fell gradually into decay after the Romans had left, there were still some massive remains standing when, in 1188, episcopal envoy Giraldus Cambrensis noted with evident relish the "immense palaces, which, with the gilded gables of their roofs, once rivalled the magnificence of ancient Rome".

 

Although time has had an inevitably corrosive effect on the remains since Giraldus' time, there's a powerful sense of history running through the Roman fortress baths (April-Oct daily 9.30am-5pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm, Sun 1-4pm; £2; CADW). The bathing houses, cold hall and communal pool area are remarkably intact and beautifully presented, with highly imaginative uses of audiovisual equipment, sound commentary and models. On the High Street, a Victorian Neoclassical portico is the sole survivor of the original Legionary Museum (April-Oct Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 2-6pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm, Sun 2-4.30pm; free), now housed in a modern building behind and laden with artefacts unearthed here, including everything from amulets to tweezers.

Opposite the Legionary Museum, Fosse Lane leads down to the hugely atmospheric Roman amphitheatre (free access), the only one of its kind preserved in Britain. Hidden under a grassy mound until the 1920s, the amphitheatre was built around 80 AD, at the same time as the Colosseum in Rome. Up to six thousand would take seats to watch animal baiting, military exercises or the gory combat of gladiators.

Caerleon's tourist office (daily: April-Oct 10am-1pm & 2-5.30pm; Nov-March 10am-1pm & 2-4pm; tel 01633/422656) lies next to the legionary museum, or there's more informal information in the Ffwrrwm craft centre, down the main street. There's central, shared-bathroom B&B at Pendragon , 18 Cross St (tel 01633/430871; £40-50), and Great House , Isca Road (tel 01633/420216; £40-50). The best place to eat in Caerleon is Oriel , a bistro in the courtyard of the Ffwrrwm centre.