Compact CRICKHOWELL (Crucywel), four miles southeast of Tretower, on the northern bank of the wide and shallow Usk, makes for a lively base from which to explore the surrounding area. There isn't much to see in town, however, apart from a grand seventeenth-century bridge , with thirteen arches visible from the eastern end and only twelve from the west, spawning many a local myth. Table Mountain (1481ft) provides a spectacular northern backdrop, topped by the remains of the 2500-year-old hill fort ( crug ) of Hywel, accessed on a path past The Wern, off Llanbedr Road. Many walkers follow a route north from Table Mountain, climbing two miles up to the plateau-topped limestone hump of Pen Cerrig-calch (2302ft).

The tourist office (April-Sept daily 9am-1pm & 2-5pm; tel 01873/812105) is in Beaufort Chambers, on Beaufort Street, and you can rent bikes from Mountain and Water, in the Riverside Centre, on New Road (tel 01873/831825). Accommodation is abundant, with a grandiose coaching inn, the Bear Hotel , on Beaufort Street (tel 01873/810408, ; £60-70), and the Dragon , on High Street (tel 01873/810362, ; £50-60); for cheaper B&B, try Greenhill Villas , Beaufort Street (tel 01873/811177; under £40). The town-centre Riverside Park   campsite lies on New Road (tel 01873/810397). Just beyond the turning for the delightful nearby village of Llanbedr, Perth-y-pia (tel 01873/810050; £40-50) is an outdoor centre with decent hostel accommodation, B&B and home-cooked evening meals; it's handily close to Llanbedr's Red Lion pub. Across the river from Llanbedr, Gellirhydd Farm (tel 01873/810466; under £40) offers great B&B and woodcraft classes.

For straightforward snacks and lunches at low, low prices you can't go past the Queen Coffee Tavern on Standard Street, just off High Street, even if you're not immediately drawn to dining to the strains of Cliff Richard overlooked by floor-to-ceiling Cliff photos and memorabilia. If you really can't bear it, visit the Cheese Press on the High Street. The Bear Hotel wins legions of awards for its delectable, pricier-than-average bar and inexpensive to moderately priced restaurant food. The Bridge End pub, by the town bridge, offers inexpensive local delicacies and veggie specialities. A couple of miles out on the Brecon road, by the A40/A479 junction, the lovely Nantyffin Cider Mill Inn (tel 01873/810775) is great for real ales and ciders, as well as tasty food.