Enclosed on three sides by the rivers Wye and Monnow, MONMOUTH (Trefynwy), fifteen miles north of Chepstow, retains some of its quiet charm as an important border post and county town, and makes a good base for a drive - or a long hike - around the Three Castles of the pastoral border country to the north.

 

The centre of the town is Agincourt Square , a handsome open space at the top of the wide, shop-lined Monnow Street, which descends gently to the thirteenth-century bridge over the River Monnow. The cobbled square is dominated by the arched, Georgian Shire Hall , in which is embedded an eighteenth-century statue of the Monmouth-born King Henry V, victor of the Battle of Agincourt, in 1415. In front is the pompous statue of another local, the Honourable Charles Stewart Rolls, co-founder of Rolls-Royce and, in 1910, the first man to pilot a double-flight over the English Channel. Almost opposite Shire Hall is Castle Hill , which you can walk up to glimpse some of the scant ruins of the castle , founded in 1068. A small regimental museum (April-Oct daily 2-5pm; Nov-March Sat & Sun 2-4pm; free) is the only part that can be visited. More inspiring is the canoe rental for trips up the Wye, available at the Monmouth Canoe & Activity Centre (tel 01600/713461) in Castle Yard, Old Dixton Road.

Priory Street leads north from Agincourt Square to the market hall, where the Nelson Museum (Mon-Sat 10am-1pm & 2-5pm, Sun 2-5pm; £1) attempts to portray the life of one of the most successful sea-going Britons through use of the Admiral's personal artefacts, collected by Charles Rolls' mother, who was an admirer. At the very bottom of Monnow Street, the road narrows to squeeze into the confines of the seven-hundred-year-old Monnow bridge , crowned with its hulking stone gate of 1262, that served both as a means of defence for the town and a toll-collection point.

The bus station is behind the Kwik Save supermarket, at the bottom of Monnow Street. The tourist office is in the Shire Hall, Agincourt Square (daily: April-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-March 9.30am-5pm; tel 01600/713899). Accommodation in town is thin on the ground: try the simple but good Burton Guesthouse , on St James Square (tel 01600/714958; under £40), the intimate Riverside Hotel on Cinderhill Street, over the Monnow Bridge (tel 01600/715577; £50-60), or the excellent Church Farm Guesthouse , two miles south in the village of Mitchel Troy (tel 01600/712176; £40-50). The nearest tent-friendly campsites are both on Drybridge Street (through Monnow Bridge then right): the Monnow Bridge (tel 01600/714004), behind the Three Horseshoes pub, and the slightly pricier Monmouth Caravan Park (tel 01600/714745), a quarter of a mile beyond.

Inexpensive daytime eating can be had at either Maltsters Coffee Shop , on St Mary's Street, or at Cygnet's Kitchen , White Swan Court, off Church Street, which serves more substantial soups and casseroles, and has outside seating. The French Horn (tel 01600/772733), handsomely situated at 24 Church St, serves moderately priced French fare for lunch and dinner. You can opt for inexpensive pub grub at the Punch House , in Agincourt Square, or the Green Dragon , in St Thomas Square, down by the Monnow Bridge.